Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids is the family name for a group of naturally occurring acids often referred to as ‘fruit acids’ due to the fact that they are derived from fruit.

They are used in cosmetic products as moisturizers, emollients and exfoliants. They treat conditions such as photodamage (sun damage), hyperpigmentation, eczema and ichthyosis. Their activity and associated benefits is dependant on the type of AHA used, the concentration employed and the pH of the formula.

There benefits include:

• A reduction of fine lines and superficial wrinkles

• Lightening of surface pigmentation

• Softer, suppler skin texture

• Increase in healthy cell regeneration

These noted benefits are a result of the AHA activity to normalize the stratum corneum (outer skin layer) by reducing it’s thickness through exfoliation and the creation of a more compact structure; increased skin hydration due to the moisturizing properties of the AHAs; their ability to activate hyaluronic acid which, in turn, will retain a greater amount of natural skin moisture; and an increase in the dermal thickness to the increased hydration and a normalization of skin function.

There are 6 key AHAs:

1. Glycolic acid (sugar cane)
2. Lactic acid (sour milk and tomato juice)
3. Malic acid (apples)
4. Tartaric acid (grapes and wine)
5. Citric acid (lemons, pineapples, oranges and other citrus fruit)
6. Pyruvic acid

The exfoliating and hyperkeratinization-reducing properties of natural AHAs make them prime ingredients for acne-orientated products, for reducing actinic keratosis, and for improving the appearance of ageing skin. Also, their emollient and hydration properties help dry and aged skin.

Of all the AHAs glycolic, lactic and malic acid, and their salts, are the most popular for use in the cosmetic industry. For these to be safely incorporated into these preparations at concentrations 10-15%, with the product’s final pH not being lower than 0.

Lactic and Malic acid are 100% pure, natural acids. They are not synthetic like glycolic acid, which is supposed to be derived from sugar cane; however, because it needs to be buffered to stabilize the pH, it is assured that the acid is synthetic.

Natural AHAs are not buffered. Peeling agents only have to be buffered if they are synthetic and require the pH of the product to be stabilized. If one has a neutral pH then the product is not exfoliating to any degree. NATURAL acids are more easily absorbed and cell regeneration is enhanced with more rapid healing. Synthetic acids cause a short, sharp shock to the skin. When this occurs one may experience superficial peeling, however, there is no long-term therapeutic action. It must also be noted that synthetic acids such as glycolic acids are inexpensive to manufacture and therefore the products containing these, should also be inexpensive.

If one wishes to eliminate pigmentation or have a dramatic effect on sundamage, solar keratoses, potential cell changes and promote true rejuvenation, then natural acids in HIGH concentration with a very LOW pH are required.

AHA work on the skin as an exfoliant for as long as it is present on the skin and for this reason I is important to remember that it is vitally important to remove the product containing it from the skin before going into the sun as the UV rays will affect the ‘exposed’ skin and therefore cause pigmentation to occur.

When using an AHA preparation on your skin it is also important that your day preparation contains a SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of at least 16. You also need to take note that the SPF in the product is not purely chemical as these have an effect on your natural skin layers. A good sunscreen will always incorporate both chemical blockers as well as physical blockers.

If you are considering going for a peel in a skin care clinic, always remember that there are mild side-effects to high concentration as used in the clinics and ask your therapist to explain these to you.

Sunless Tanning

Often as part of the preparation for a wedding, or other formal dress event, many women look into the mirror, and decide a tan would be the perfect finishing touch.

You can easily have a great and completely natural looking sunless tan on the big day, without fear of ruining dress, skin or photos. A sunless tanner will not run or rub off onto the outside of your wedding dress, or formal wear, if you take the time to shower any colour guide (added tint) or sunless tanner residue off of skin before dressing. But you may experience some rub off onto the inside garment seams. This will easily wash away when garments are cleaned.

A beautiful sunless tan can be achieved in a matter of hours, but perfecting application skills can take months. And with a sunless tan, application often can “make or break” the best sunless tanner. However, many application errors can be easily prevented with the following guidelines.

A bride should plan to give herself an average of about three months, to perfect application, and to find the best products for her big day. This will give you plenty of time, to try a few different products and application styles, and also allow you to accurately judge fading and product wear so you don’t have any unpleasant surprises during the Honeymoon. The average sunless tan starts to fade in about three days, and usually will be completely gone in 7 to 10 days.

You can reapply your product every three to four days to boast or refresh colour.

A savage dark tan does not usually look good for a wedding, and is a nightmare for the photographer, when trying to make the skin tones in photos look natural. Instead opt for a light tan. This will look much more natural in photos, and the fading will be less obvious during the honeymoon trip. This will also be much easier to exfoliate away when fading starts if you don’t intend to continue self tanning on your honeymoon.

You will need to plan your beauty care routine carefully when using a sunless tanner. Do your last facial about four weeks before the big day, as the exfoliation will remove your facial tan. If you will need to colour your hair, plan to do it about two weeks before the wedding, the dye can discolour your skin, and tan.

• Schedule any hair removal waxing at least one week before the wedding. Hair removal waxes, and depilatories will both remove your sunless tan.

• Facial hair bleaches, tooth bleaching products and whitening toothpastes can all lighten your tan if they get on the skin around your mouth

• To prevent rub off on your dress, exfoliate skin well about one to two days before the wedding or formal event. For proper exfoliation, avoid loofas or standard shower scrubs. Instead use nylon mesh or plant fiber exfoliating bath gloves, or some baking soda mixed with shower gel on a damp washcloth. Scrub thoroughly but gently, all over with overlapping circular motions. Apply extra attention to thicker skin areas, such as hands, feet, knees, and elbows.

• Moisturize well daily with a rich moisturizer, on shower damp skin.

Three days, before the wedding or event, is the perfect time to have your pedicure, manicure, and paraffin treatments done. (Before applying your sunless tanner)

The next day you can apply a coat of sunless tanner. Use a light or light medium tanner, but don’t use a product you have never tested before. Apply a second coat the next day. Or just touch up face, neck and chest as needed.

Showering with Vanilla or Citrus scented shower gels will eliminate any residual sunless tanner development odor. You can also mix about ¼ teaspoon of vanilla extract with your sunless tanning product, prior to application, to eliminate any odor.

Before dressing, moisturize skin well. Dust body all over with a translucent or light sparkly body powder. This will minimize possible rub off onto dress or undergarment seams.

If you just can’t seem to master self application, you can also go with products applied to you by someone else.

• A sunless spray on tanner, booth product such as Mist-on Tan, Mystic Tan, or similar products.

• A spray on tanner applied by a hand help airbrush or spray gun, from an experienced technician, often called an Airbrush Tan.

• A lotion product applied by a technician, in a Spa or other beauty facility.

These facilities can often be found in your phone book, look in the Yellow Pages sections, under “Tanning”, “Gyms” “Spas” etc.

Please test these options well before the big day. Just because someone else applies the product, does not guarantee you will love the results.

But what if you don’t have two to three months to practice before the wedding? If you don’t have the benefit of extra preparation time, you should conceder the use of a shimmer product or light bronzer instead.

Shimmer products come in a range of effects, from a subtle opalescence shimmer glow, a fine dusting of sparkles to just plain glitter. Generally the shimmers and sparkles will look much nicer then the larger pieces of glitter.

An opalescent type product usually comes in a lotion or gel, and can be applied all over before dressing on the big day. Do avoid the face though. A translucent or clear product will not be as likely to show visible rub off on your dress as a darkly tinted product. Dust all over with a lightly scented body powder to “set” the lotion.

A shimmer product is often available in powders, gels, and lotions. Usually a lighter hand gives a better effect then an allover coating. Again go with a translucent or clear product. Using a large makeup bush or puff dust powder onto shoulders, chest, cheekbones, brow bones, and tops of arms. Stroke lotion or gel on lightly, and set with powder.

You can also use a light bronzer for a slightly sun kissed look. Don’t try to look like a Brazilian bronzed babe, you won’t be able to pull it off with a bronzer only, and if you sweat, the excess bronzer can discolour your dress and undergarments. Use a light bronzing powder or gel on cheekbones, bridge of nose, top of forehead, tip of chin, tops of shoulders, and a bit on chest. Don’t get carried away. Less is often better. Dust with translucent powder to set if needed.

Following the above tips, you can achieve a luminous and healthy glow on your special day.

Skin Care Myths

Myth #1:

‘There are skin-care products that really are better than Botox or better than dermal fillers.’

Fact: Over the past few years cosmetic companies have positioned their skin-care products claiming that they can compete with or even outdo medical corrective procedures such as Botox. The ads in fashion magazines for these types of skin-care products often make claims about how dangerous Botox injections can be. There is nothing scary about Botox (other than the sound of the botulism toxin material used). In fact, the research about Botox’s effectiveness and safety is overwhelmingly positive for every disorder they treat with it (and there are many, from cerebral palsy in children to headaches and eye tics)

On the other hand, there is absolutely no research showing that any skin-care product can even remotely work in any manner like Botox or like dermal fillers (such as Restylane or Aretcoll) or like laser resurfacing. Regardless of the ingredients or the claims for skin-care products, it just isn’t possible. Even Botox can’t work like Botox if you apply it topically rather than injecting it into facial muscles. Nor can dermal fillers plump up wrinkles when applied topically rather than being injected. When administered by professionals, Botox and dermal injections almost immediately make wrinkles in the treated area disappear. Believing that skin-care products can do the same is a complete waste of money. There has never been a single skin-care product that has ever put a plastic surgeon or cosmetic dermatologist out of business. Skin care products are nevertheless important for many other functions of the skin, and should therefore still be used in conjunction with these ‘cosmetic procedures’. The one can never replace the other

Myth#2:

‘You should choose skin-care products based on your age.’

Fact: Many products on the market claim to be designed for a specific age group, especially for “mature” women; mature usually refers to women over 50.
To clear up the confusion what you need to know is that skin has different needs based on skin type, not based on age. Not everyone in the same age group has the same skin type. Your skin-care routine depends on how dry, sun-damaged, oily, sensitive, thin, blemished, or normal your skin is, all of which have nothing to do with age. Then there are the issues of skin conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis, allergies, and other skin disorders, which again, have nothing to do with age. What everyone needs to do is protect the outer barrier of their skin in exactly the same way by, avoiding unnecessary direct sun exposure (sun protection), don’t smoke, don’t irritate your skin, and do use good skin-care products loaded with antioxidants and skin-identical ingredients. Plenty of young women have dry skin, and plenty of older women have oily skin and breakouts (particularly women who are experiencing perimenopausal or menopausal hormone fluctuations).
There are some skin disorders, diseases, and functionality problems associated with older skin, but they depend on the woman and her particular skin; they are not universally true of older skin, because even these specific maladies can occur in younger people as well (such as ulcerated skin, wounds that don’t heal, itchy skin, and thinning skin).

Myth #3:

‘Products labeled as “hypoallergenic” are better for sensitive skin.’

Fact: “Hypoallergenic” is little more than a nonsense word. It is nothing more than an advertising contrivance in the world of cosmetics meant to imply that a product is unlikely or less likely to cause allergic reactions and therefore is better for sensitive or problem skin. To “imply” is never the same as “fact,” and in this situation it is patently untrue that products labeled “hypoallergenic” are any better for sensitive skin. There are absolutely no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere in the world, for determining whether or not a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic. A company can label their product “hypoallergenic” because there is no regulation that says they can’t, regardless of any proof, and what proof can they provide given there is no standard to measure against. Given that there are no regulations governing this supposed category that was made up by the cosmetics industry, there are plenty of products labeled “hypoallergenic” that contain problematic ingredients and that could indeed trigger allergic reactions.

Myth #4:

‘Age spots are best treated with specialty skin lighteners, whiteners, or products claiming to get rid of brown skin discolorations.’

Fact: Firstly, the term “age spot” is really a misnomer. Brown, freckle-like skin discolorations are not a result of age; they are the result of years of unprotected sun exposure. You can demonstrate this yourself: just compare the skin on the parts of your body that haven’t seen the sun (like your buttock or the inner part of your arm) with skin on the parts of your body that see the sun on a regular basis. I’ll bet that the parts of your body that don’t the see sun will have minimal to no skin discolorations. And keep in mind that the UV rays of the sun also come through windows as well as penetrate clothing, especially dark clothing.
Secondly, the number of skin-care products claiming they can make skin whiter or lighter more often than not contain no ingredient that can have any significant, or even a minor, impact on melanin production (melanin is the brown pigment in skin). In addition, even when the product does contain an ingredient that can have an effect, it usually contains such a small amount that it won’t help at all. Basically, there is no comparison between the effects (or non-effects) of using one of these products and using a sunscreen plus a product containing hydroquinone.
Because unprotected sun exposure is the primary trigger for most brown, freckle-like skin discolorations, the primary way to reduce, prevent, and possibly even eliminate skin discolorations is diligent, daily application of a well-formulated sunscreen. Be sure not to forget the back of your hands and your chest (and be sure to reapply every time you wash your hands, because sunscreen does wash off).
No other aspect of controlling or reducing brown skin discolorations is as important as being careful about not getting a tan and never exposing your skin to the sun without using a sunscreen rated SPF 15 or more. And make sure that the sunscreen includes the UVA-protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone (which can also be on the label as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), Tinosorb, or Mexoryl SX (which can also be on the label as ecamsule) because UVA damage is what triggers brown.
There is a very specific game plan you can follow to get the most impressive results; it starts with avoiding sun exposure, daily use of a well-formulated sunscreen (365 days per year), and using a skin-care product that contains hydroquinone. In addition, an exfoliant (e.g., AHAs and BHA) can be helpful and certain laser, intense pulsed light, and radio wave treatments from a dermatologist or plastic surgeon can be extremely helpful. But, and this is an important but: If you don’t also use a sunscreen daily you will be wasting your time and money.

Myth #5:

‘Women outgrow acne; you’re not supposed to break out once you reach your 20s and beyond!’

Fact: In fact, women in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and even 50s can have acne just like teenagers, and the treatment principles remain the same. Not everyone who has acne as a teenager will grow out of it, and even if you had clear skin as a teenager, there’s no guarantee that you won’t get acne later in life, perhaps during menopause. You can blame this often-maddening inconsistency on hormones. What is true is that men can outgrow acne, because after puberty men’s hormone levels level out, while women’s hormone levels fluctuate throughout their lifetime, which is why many women experience breakouts around their menstrual cycle.

‘Acne is caused by eating the wrong foods.’

Fact:This is both true and false. The traditional foods thought to cause acne, such as chocolate and greasy foods, have no effect on acne, and there is no research indicating otherwise. However, there is the potential that individual dietary allergic reactions can trigger acne, such as eating foods that contain iodine, like shellfish, although there is an ongoing controversy about that. A bit more conclusive is new research showing that milk, especially skim milk, can increase the risk of acne. The same may be true for a diet high in carbohydrates; a high glycemic load can increase breakouts, while a low glycemic load can reduce their occurrence.

‘If you clean your face better you can clear up your acne.’

Fact: Over-cleaning your face can actually make matters worse. Acne is caused primarily by hormonal fluctuations that affect the oil gland, creating an environment where acne-causing bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) can flourish. Don’t confuse scrubbing or “deep cleaning” with helping acne, because it absolutely doesn’t. Over-cleansing your face triggers inflammation that actually makes acne worse. What really helps breakouts is using a gentle cleanser so you don’t damage your skin’s outer barrier or create inflammation (both of which hinder your skin’s ability to heal and fight bacteria) and using gentle exfoliation. An effective exfoliating product that contains salicylic acid or glycolic acid can make all the difference in reducing acne;

‘Stress causes acne.’
Fact: Generally, it is believed that stress can trigger acne, but no one is exactly sure how that works, and there is conflicting research. While it never hurts to reduce angst and worry in your life, stress as a causative factor for acne is hard to pinpoint.

Myth #6:

‘Makeup causes acne’

Fact: Probably not. There is no research indicating that makeup or skin-care products cause acne, and there is no consensus on which ingredients are problematic. In the late 1970s there was some research performed on rabbit skin using 100% concentrations of ingredients to determine whether or not they caused acne. Subsequently, it was determined that this study had nothing to do with the way women wear makeup or use skin-care products, and it was never repeated or considered useful in any way. Still, women do experience breakouts after using some skin-care products. Such breakouts can be the result of an irritant or an inflammatory response, a random skin reaction, or a result of problematic ingredients unique to a person’s skin type. That means you have to experiment to see what might be causing your breakouts. There is no information from medical research or the cosmetic industry to help or point you in the right direction. And just so you know, “noncomedogenic” and “non-acnegenic” are meaningless words the cosmetics industry uses to indicate that a product is less likely to cause breakouts, but there is no standard or regulation set to categorize this labeling.

Myth #7:

“Our studies show…” is a great way to determine if a skin-care product works or not.

Fact: In the world of skin care, there is an entire business known as claim substantiation, and it definitely does not equate to legitimate scientific research at all. Laboratories, including those at some respected universities and colleges, are expert at setting up a study so that the results support whatever the label or advertisements say that a product can do. One important thing that many consumers and physicians aren’t aware of, and this includes lots of physicians who are involved in these dubious (often completely bogus) studies, is the question, “Under what conditions were the studies performed?”

Myth #8:

‘Applying collagen and elastin to skin will add to the collagen and elastin content of skin, which will eliminate wrinkles.’

Fact: Collagen and elastin in skin-care products can serve as good water-binding agents, but they cannot fuse with your skin’s natural supply of these supportive elements. In most cases, the collagen molecule is too large to penetrate into the skin. But even when it is made small enough to be absorbed it cannot bind with the collagen existing in skin, and there isn’t a shred of research indicating otherwise. What does exist are myriad studies showing that collagen is a very good moisturizing ingredient, which is great for skin, but not unique or the only formulary option. It is important to point out that even if you were to take the collagen that is used in medically administered dermal injections and rub it on your skin, it wouldn’t be absorbed, and it wouldn’t change wrinkles by bolstering the existing collagen. Protecting your skin from sun damage, daily exfoliation with a well-formulated AHA or BHA product, and treating your skin to a range of ingredients (antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-identical ingredients) that it needs to look and feel its best will protect its natural collagen supply and allow it to build new collagen (something that healthy skin loves to do and does quite well under the right conditions).

Myth #9:

‘Eye creams are specially formulated for use around the delicate eye area.’

Fact: There is no evidence, research, or documentation validating the claim that the eye area needs ingredients different from those you use on your face or neck area or décolletage. Even if there were ingredients that were special for the eye area, that isn’t evident in eye products; their formulations are random, with no consistency in the industry. All cosmetics companies put whatever ingredients they want to into their eye products (and usually give you half as much but charge you twice as much as the same product for your face). The ingredient label on these “specialty” products more than proves the point. Eye creams are a whim of the cosmetics industry designed to evoke the sale of two products when only one is needed.
One more point, occasionally a physician, aesthetician, or someone selling skin-care products will defend their eye creams by telling me that the eye area doesn’t need ingredients that cause irritation. That means that all your eye area needs is a well-formulated product, and that can certainly be the same product you use on your face, however, if the facial formulation includes AHA or BHA, it is best not to use the product over the eye area, as it will cause irritation and peeling of the skin around eyes.

Myth #10:

‘There is a product out there that really can eliminate wrinkles.’

Fact: Regrettably, there is no magic potion or combination of products in any price range that can make wrinkles truly disappear or prevent them, except daily use of a well-formulated sunscreen (and never getting a tan). The wrinkles you see and agonize over (not to be confused with fine lines caused by dryness, which are easily remedied with a good moisturizer) are the result of cumulative sun damage and the inevitable breakdown of your skin’s natural support structure. Skin-care ingredients, no matter who is selling them or what claims they make for them, cannot replace what plastic surgeons can do. There are literally thousands of anti-wrinkle products being sold and we buy more of these than almost any other beauty product.

Myth #11:

‘Expensive cosmetics are better than inexpensive cosmetics.’

Fact: The absolute truth is that there are good and bad products in all price categories.
The amount of money you spend on skin-care products has nothing to do with the quality or uniqueness of the formula.

Myth #12:

‘Mineral oil is a terrible, unnatural ingredient for skin because it comes from crude oil and will suffocate your skin.’

Fact: This recurring, foolish, misinformation about mineral oil and petrolatum is maddening. After all, crude oil is as natural as any other earth-derived substance. Moreover, lots of ingredients are derived from awful-sounding sources, but are nevertheless benign and totally safe. Salt is a perfect example. Common table salt is sodium chloride, composed of sodium and chloride, but salt doesn’t have the caustic properties of chloride (a form of chlorine) or the unstable explosiveness of pure sodium. Cosmetic grade mineral oil and petrolatum are considered the safest, most nonirritating moisturizing ingredients ever found. Yes, they can reduce the amount of air that comes in contact with skin, and reduce its impact on skin, but that’s what a good antioxidant is supposed to do; they don’t suffocate skin. There are several studies showing that mineral oil can help heal and moisturize skin quite effectively. The confusion around mineral oil is also caused by some cosmetics companies and people who use the information about non-purified mineral oil as a scare tactic. This is the type that’s used in skin-care products, and it’s completely safe and potentially soothing and healthy for skin

Myth #13:

‘Natural ingredients are better for skin than synthetic ingredients.’

Fact: Whatever preconceived notion someone might have or media-induced fiction someone might believe about natural ingredients being better for the skin; it’s not true, there is no factual basis or scientific legitimacy for that belief. Not only is the definition of “‘natural” hazy, but the term is loosely regulated, so any cosmetics company can use it to mean whatever they want it to mean. Just because an ingredient grows out of the ground or is found in nature doesn’t make it automatically good for skin; and the reverse is also true, just because it is synthetic doesn’t make it bad.

Myth #14:

‘Blackheads are caused by dirt and can be scrubbed away.’

Fact: Blackheads may make skin look dirty, but they are unrelated to dirt. Blackheads are formed when hormones cause too much sebum (oil) to be produced, dead skin cells get in the way, the pore is impaired or misshapen, and the path for the oil to exit through the pore is blocked, creating a clog. As this clog nears the surface of the skin, the mixture of oil and cellular debris oxidizes and turns, you guessed it: black. You cannot scrub away blackheads, at least not completely. Using a topical scrub removes the top portion of the blackhead, but does nothing to address the underlying cause, so they’re back again before too long. Instead of a scrub, try using a well-formulated BHA (salicylic acid) product. Salicylic acid exfoliates inside the pore lining, dissolving oil and dead skin cells that lead to constant blackheads.

Myth #15:

‘Oily skin can be controlled externally (from the outside in) with the right skin-care products.’

Fact: Possibly, but right now this is mere conjecture, involving an extremely complicated and difficult to understand process. Oil production is triggered primarily by androgens and estrogen (male and female hormones, respectively), and altering hormone production topically is not something available in the realm of cosmetics. However, the sebaceous gland itself also produces active androgens, which can increase sebum excretion. What can happen is that stress-sensing skin signals (think skin inflammation and irritation) can lead to the production and release of androgens and cause more oil production, which can clog pores. That makes topical irritation and inflammation bad for skin, but that still doesn’t affect the production of hormones inside the body.

Myth #16:

‘Dry skin is caused by a lack of water, either by not having enough in skin or simply not drinking enough water.’

Fact: Ironically, dry skin is not as simple as just a lack of moisture. The studies that have compared the water content of dry skin to that of normal or oily skin show that there doesn’t appear to be a statistically significant difference. And adding more moisture to the skin is not necessarily a good thing” if anything, too much moisture, like soaking in a bathtub, is bad for skin because it disrupts the skin’s outer barrier (the intracellular matrix) by breaking down the substances that keep skin cells functioning normally and in good shape. What is thought to be taking place when dry skin occurs is that the intracellular matrix (the substances between skin cells that keep them intact, smooth, and healthy) has become depleted or damaged, bringing about a rough, uneven, and flaky texture that allows water to be lost. As for drinking lots of water each day, if all it took to get rid of dry skin was to drink more water, then no one would have dry skin and moisturizers would stop being sold. Keeping your liquid intake up is fine, but if you take in more water than your body needs, all you will be doing is running to the bathroom all day and night. The causes of and treatments for dry skin are far more complicated than water consumption.

Myth #17:

‘Everyone needs a day cream and a night cream: Skin requires special care at night.’

Fact: The ONLY difference between a daytime and nighttime moisturizer is that the daytime version should contain a well-formulated sunscreen. What you often hear cosmetics salespeople say is that the skin needs different ingredients at night than during the day. Skin is repairing itself and producing skin cells every nanosecond of the day, and night. Helping skin do that in as healthy a manner as possible doesn’t change based on the time of day. Skin needs a generous amount of antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-identical ingredients all day and all night. For daytime wear, unless your foundation contains an effective sunscreen, it is essential that your moisturizer feature a well-formulated, broad-spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 15 or higher.

Myth #18:

‘Your skin adapts to the skin-care products you are using and you need to change to new products every now and then.’

Fact: Skin doesn’t adapt to skin-care products any more than your body adapts to a healthy diet. If spinach and grapes are healthy for you they are always healthy, and they continue to be healthy, even if you eat them every day. The same is true for your skin, as long as you are applying what is healthy for skin (and avoiding negative external sources such as unprotected sun exposure) it remains healthy.

Myth #19:

‘I should just use what I like on my skin, that’s the most important thing.’

Fact: Lots of women have problems with their skin because they often like what isn’t good for them. For example, you may like getting a tan, but that can cause skin cancer and most certainly will cause wrinkles and skin discolorations. You may like smoking cigarettes, but that will cause skin cells to die and will cause the growth of unhealthy, malformed skin cells. You may like that daytime moisturizer you are using, but if it doesn’t contain sunscreen it leaves your skin wide open to sun damage. Or you may like that moisturizer that comes packaged in a jar, but because most state-of-the-art ingredients, especially antioxidants, plant extracts, vitamins, and cell-communicating ingredients, deteriorate in the presence of air, the jar packaging will not keep these ingredients stable, and so you would be short-changing your skin soon after the product is opened (think about how long a head of lettuce lasts in your refrigerator). What it takes to help your skin be at its best and to function normally and really fight wrinkles or acne or any other skin problem is far more complex than just using what you “like.” This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t like what you use, but do take the time to select from among products that are truly healthy and beneficial for skin. That is, take the time to read the ingredient list, because you can’t determine the benefits intuitively.