This is a treatment that has enjoyed much controversy over the years and has been the cause of many studies to be conducted in an attempt to find exactly what effect photo rejuvenation by means of IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) treatments has on ageing skin.

One such study is mentioned below:

‘A number of studies have been performed starting in the late 1990’s to evaluate the safety and effectiveness of IPL on wrinkle-removal and rejuvenation of the skin. One such conducted by a group of 4 researchers from the Weill Cornell Medical College of Cornell University and published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology in 2004 found IPL to be a "non-invasive, non-ablative method for rejuvenating photoaged skin with minimal adverse events"’ ( Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photorejuvenation )

The IPL systems works by means of emitting varied wavelengths of intense, pulsed, broad spectrum light, which can permeate the cuticle of the derma and take effect on abnormalities in the skin, and cause these tissues to break down the abnormal pigment cells, constrict abnormal blood vessels, stimulate the proliferation of collagen and improve the rearrangement of elastin fibers in the skin, which in turn aids in the rejuvenation of the skin.

Varying wavelengths are used for varying skin problems, but they all work on similarly:

• Pigmentation:

  When the light penetrates the dermal layer, the abnormal pigment in the area is broken down and absorbed via the blood capillary network into the Lymphatic system and broken down.
   

• Broken Capillaries/Telangiectasia:

  These occur when the ‘back-flow’ valve of the capillary is damaged, which causes pooling of blood cells in the damage vessel. As the light reaches these damaged vessels, the pool of blood is pushed from the area, which in turn aids in the removal of ‘old’ blood cells that have accumulated in the area and the body can now eliminate these waste materials and bring new, healthy cells to the area.
   

• Fine Lines and Wrinkles

  As the light reaches the collagen and elastin fibers it causes microscopic lesions in the fibers, which triggers the body’s autoimmune response and brings healing agents to the area via the bloodstream. This process causes new fibers to synthesize and therefore the skin heals itself, which improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, by ‘plumping’ the skin naturally from the inside

Benefits of IPL Treatments

IPL procedures require no anesthetic and sometimes offer near-instant results, such as in the case of pigmentation and vascular problems. The semi-painless procedure also does not require any downtime, which is why it is known as a ‘lunch-time’ treatment, resuming regular activities within a few minutes after treatment.

IPL treatments can be used to correct and refine skin problems on nearly all skin types, and are effective for treating:

• Ephelides (Freckles)
   
• Solar Keratosis (Age spots)
   
• Hyperpigmentation
   
• Rosacea
   
• Spider veins
   
• Birthmarks
   
• Sun spots
   
• Acne scars
   
• Stretch marks

These are effectively treated because the IPL (Intense pulsed Light) penetrates deep into the skin where various wavelengths are used to target different structures. Shorter wavelengths target small blood vessels and pigmented lesions, and longer wavelengths heat and remodel collagen and elastin fibers. This versatility makes IPL ideal for treating actinically damaged skin.

Risks

As with all light treatments, there are bound to be some drawbacks to IPL treatments. Even though there are no long-term problems associated with intense pulse light therapy, but there are some side effects with this treatment. The intensive light can cause slight swelling and redness in the treatment area, especially in areas where the skin is very thin or especially fragile, but subsides within a few minutes and in very sensitive cases hours after treatment.

Hypo-pigmentation, though very rare, is a concern associated with IPL treatments, and is most common in those with darker skin tones, however can be avoided by doing a patch test prior to treatment as well as ensuring that the IPL professional knows what they are doing.

Also see:

IPL skin treatment Basics

Indications for IPL Treatments

Advantages of IPL - Intense Pulsed light treatments

IPL Hair Removal

IPL vs Laser Hair Removal

We have recently decided to add Lash Extensions to out treatment menu as this is the latest trend that is sweeping the world and is pioneered by models and celebrities across the board.

Lash Extensions enhance the appearance of your natural eyelashes by adding length and fullness, whilst still remaining natural-looking and weightless.

Genie B Clarke, founder of Eyellusions Lash Extensions, explains: "Unlike the old false eyelashes that were applied to the skin of the eylid, the new semi-permanent eyelash extensions are bonded one at a time directly to individual eyelashes. A girl can be a girl, bat those lashes, cry, swim, exercise, shower and never have to worry about mascara ever running again. Eyellusions lah extensions are premium quality with a natural look and feel. Each lash is tapered and curled, and they come in various lengths, widths, shapes and colours so that exactly the required image can be achieved."

The application is painless and takes between one and two hours to apply. This gives the client time to relax. The bonding agent is a remarkable product that is available in medical and performance grades and is suitable for hyper-allergic eyes.

One can choose to have them applied for a special occasion only or for a permanent look, you would need 3-4 weekly touch-ups to keep the natural look as the lashes fall out with your own natural eyelashes that have a 4-6 week lifespan. This means that shedding of natural eyelashes take the bonded lashes with them.

Contra-indications for Lash Extension:

There are a number of diseases that involve the natural eyelashes:

• Madarosis is a condition in which one loses your own natural eye lashes
   
• Blepharitis is an irritation of the area where the eyelash joins the eyelid. In this condition, excessive oil is produced by the lash follicles and glands of the eyelid. The skin often becomes flaky and the natural lashes tend to fall out.
   
• Distichiasis is a condition in which eyelashes grow from abnormal sites on the eyelid.
   
• Trichiasis is a condition in which the ingrown eyelashes occur
   
• Eyelashes that are infected with crab louse parasites
   
• Styes (external Hordeolum) are purulent inflammation of infected eyelash fillicles and their surrounding sebaceous and apocrine glands of the lid margin
   
• Trichotillomania is a condition that urges the sufferer to pull out scalp and eyelash hair. It is like OCD, but with hair
   
• Demodex folliculorum is a small mite that lives, harmlessly, in the eyelash follicles and around 98% of us have these mites living in our lashes and/or hair
   
• Alopecia is a condition in which the sufferer may develop gradual hair loss. It results from hereditary factors.
   
• Eye allergies (any) even if only seasonal
   

ALSO SEE:

http://www.lashextensionscapetown.co.za for more information about lash extensions.

 Lash Extension and Make-up Promotions

Lash Extension Before amd After Photos:

Definition: The principle of selective thermolysis can be applied towards the removal of tattoos. The energy delivered by a number of different lasers is targeted towards the carbon particles or dyes that are found in skin tattoos, allowing selective destruction of the foreign pigment while minimizing damage to the surrounding skin.

Lasers may be used on professional, amateur, cosmetic, medicinal, and traumatic tattoos. The different colors present in the tattoos may respond differently to laser tattoo removal. Lasers offer a non-invasive and effective treatment for unwanted tattoos.

FAQ

1. Is Laser Tattoo removal painful?

   That depends on your pain threshold. When a lower fluence is used, the degree of pain is often described as comparable to that of a rubber band snapping against the skin. You may need local anesthesia with higher fluences. This will eliminate any discomfort during the procedure. A topical anesthetic cream (such as EMLA®) or the infiltration of the surrounding skin with lidocaine may be necessary.
    

2. How many treatments are necessary for tattoo removal?

   Tattoos require multiple treatment sessions, usually performed at 4-8 week intervals or longer. Tattoo lightening may continue for several months after the last treatment session. Amateur black tattoos typically respond better than professional tattoos.

Postoperative Care

You should expect some swelling and blistering during the first day or two after the procedure.
Immediately following treatments, white crusting may occur. Any resultant scab generally resolves in 10-14 days.

Continued lightening of the tattoo can be observed for 4-8 weeks after each treatment session.
Wound care is required to aid the healing process and to prevent infection. Typically an antibiotic ointment and dressing changes are recommended.
Recommendations include acetaminophen (Tylenol®) for pain, elevation of the treated area to counteract any local swelling, and sun avoidance to prevent tanning.

Multicolored Tattoos

Multiple wavelengths are necessary to treat multicolored tattoos.

Scarring

Pigmentary changes may occur following laser treatment because the wavelengths used are also absorbed by melanin (the natural pigments in your skin). Your skin may either lighten or darken. The latter is more common following sun exposure. These changes may be transient or permanent.

Who is a candidate for Tattoo Laser Removal?

Anyone with an undesired tattoo is a candidate for laser tattoo removal. Most tattoo colors can be eliminated or lightened to a large degree. However, skin colored tattoos may undergo irreversible ink darkening. This is seen with some white, pink, flesh-toned and light brown tattoo inks. Red ink tattoos may turn black. A test dose is a good idea in these situations, and the tattoos may be improved with subsequent laser treatments.

Where?

Virtually any tattoo that is located on the surface of the skin can be treated with a laser. If you are getting treatment in a sensitive area you may need to have topical or intralesional anesthesia. If you are getting treatment near your eyes, application of an eye shield for protection may be necessary. Hair bearing areas may be protected with an aqueous gel.

What Can I do About Tattoo Removal?

• Understand the objectives of laser tattoo removal
• Complete clearing of all tattoos is not always possible. However, you can expect to see a dramatic lightening.
• Multiple treatments are typically necessary to obtain the maximum benefit. Amateur black tattoos respond more quickly than professional and multicolored tattoos.
• Doubly treated tattoos may require additional treatments.
• Multicolored tattoos may require several different wavelengths because of the selective absorption characteristics of tattoo pigment.

Self Help

To increase the benefits of this procedure and avoid complications, you should strictly avoid sun exposure and tanning prior to and during the treatment period.

Laser treatments

1. Q-switched Ruby Laser (QSRL)

   This laser emits a red light that is well absorbed by most amateur and professional tattoo ink colors except red and yellow. Dark blue and black inks respond best. The response of green tattoos is variable. Excellent results are observed, especially with amateur black tattoos. Amateur tattoos respond in fewer treatments compared to professional tattoos. The QSRL is also effective in treating medicinal and traumatic tattoos.
    

2. Q-switched Nd:YAG

   This laser is effective for both amateur and professional tattoos of all colors. Like the ruby laser, the Q-switched Nd:YAG is most effective for black tattoos. This laser has the advantage of being useful for darker skinned individuals. At the frequency doubled setting (532 nm), the Q-switched Nd:YAG is highly effective for treating red and orange tattoos. The Q-switched Nd:YAG laser at 1064nm can cause more pain, and a higher degree of textural changes to your skin than the QSRL.
    

3. Q-switched Alexandrite Laser

   This laser is comparable to the QSRL when it is used to treat tattoos, particularly when treating green tattoos. Up to 50% of patients can experience textural changes in their skin after treatment.
    

4. Flashlamp-pumped Pulsed Dye Laser

   With a wavelength of 510 nm, this laser does not penetrate into the deeper tattoos. However, it is effective for the treatment of brightly colored tattoos such as those that use red, purple, and orange inks. The major side effect of this laser is bruising.
   
   510-mm, 300-nanosecond Candela pigmented lesion dye laser

   The flashlamp-pulsed laser (510 nm, pulse width of 300 ± 100 ns) was developed as a companion to the Q-switched alexandrite laser to treat epidermal melanocytic lesions. This wavelength is also well absorbed by red pigment, and the pulse width is short enough to fragment ink granules. Successful clearing without scarring usually occurs in 3-7 treatments performed at 1-month intervals using 3-3.75 J/cm2. Purple, orange, and yellow pigments require an average of 5 treatments for complete ink removal. No hypopigmentation, textural change, or scarring is noted. Histologically, fragmentation of red pigment particles is observed, followed by macrophage engulfment. In addition, because of the epidermal absorption of this laser, transepidermal ink loss occurs.
    

5. Q-switched laser treatments

   Treatment intervals

   Early on, patients were treated every 4 weeks. In the alexandrite study, of the 4 patients unable to return for their scheduled treatment, 2 patients went 3 months and 2 patients went 5 months between treatments. Two of these 4 patients reported progressive and gradual clearing of the tattoo during the prolonged interval between treatment sessions; the other 2 patients noticed immediate improvement only, which then stabilized without further clearing.

   The appropriate treatment interval is critical and yet poorly understood. To study different treatment intervals, one group of patients received 3 treatments within 7-10 days and then no treatment for 3 months, a second group had single treatments at 2-month intervals, and the third group had single treatments at 1-month intervals. No difference in the rate of tattoo clearing was seen. All 3 treatment intervals resulted in approximately 50% clearing after 3 treatment sessions; however, as the number of treatments increases, the potential for tissue reaction also increases.

   Occasional rest periods or longer treatment intervals of 2-3 months allow melanin to recover and transient textural changes to normalize, which may help avoid unwanted adverse tissue responses. Higher fluences and shorter pulse widths appear to remove tattoo pigment more rapidly but may induce excessive shock wave tissue reaction; therefore, they must be balanced with the desire to remove pigment without scarring or hypopigmentation. The current recommendation is to treat at 6- to 8-week intervals unless a longer period is needed for tissue recovery.

    

The cause for this condition is that fat pockets increase as we age. If you look at the ‘inside of the body, you will see that these fat pockets have a network of blood vessels, connective tissue and muscle around and underneath them. As the fat pockets take in nutrients form the blood system, they ’swell’ and grow in size. But as they grow and multiply, the other networks do not expand to the same extent as the fat cells. This is what causes the cellulite to appear as the fat cells have increased to a point where the blood vessel and connective tissue networks forms a ‘net-like’ appearance between the fat cells.

The thighs, buttocks and the abdomen are the most common areas for a woman to develop cellulite. Although it is often mistaken for obesity, cellulite is not actually obesity related because it can also take place in thin lean women. Underneath the dermis and epidermis are three specific layers of fat. Cellulite tends to develop in the subcutaneous fat layers. This layer of fat is unique in its structure compared to the other layers because its fatty parts are structured into specific chambers by strands of linked tissue around it.

Hormones also help out with the storage of fat along with the body’s metabolism in the subcutaneous fat layer. Hormonal factors such as estrogen and folliculine also play a role in cellulite formation. Cellulite is for the most part found in women during their hormonal changes such as puberty, pregnancy, and menopause and also whilst taking birth control pills. A woman’s hormones are usually responsible for the regulation of their blood flow, fat, connective tissue and lymphatic drainage. The fat cells between the two reserve fat layers situated under the subcutaneous fat layer dissolve into a slack network. A person’s genetic makeup predicts their fat storage and metabolism in these layers which are predisposed by diet, exercise and lifestyle.

These layers have no responsibility for cellulite forming on a person’s body. The subcutaneous fat layer in a woman is organised into large upright chambers allowing fat to be stored. In men, these chambers are organised into small slanting units. These store smaller fat quantities and are not likely to form cellulite. Cellulite’s formation is a result of complex physiological changes that occur in the subcutaneous fat layer.

Regular exercise and well balanced diets do not always reverse or prevent its formation, although an unhealthy lifestyle will make the overall appearance worse over time due to poor nutrition, weight gain and lack of sufficient water intake. With age there is a loss in the thickness and tone of the connective tissue in the superficial fat layer and the dermis.

There really is no cure for cellulite- no cream, lotion or posion can help illiminate cellulite. The only things that these and treatments like massage do, is to cause inflammation in the surrounding tissues, which makes them swell and therefore creating the illusion that the cellulite has diminishes.

Also See:

• Mesotherapy for the treatment of Cellulite
   
• Endermologie is used to treat Cellulite

Milia

This is a condition in which keratinisation of the skin occurs over the hair follicle, causing sebum to accumulate in the hair follicle. It is also commonly known as a ‘blind’ pimple. It usually accompanies dry skin and is seen as small, hard, pearly white cysts.

Common sites include the eye area and upper face. They may be removed by means of a sterilized scalpel, with which the overlying cuticle is pierced, freeing the milia.

Comedones / Blackheads

There are two types of Comedones:

• Open comedones are black in colour, due to the bacteria in the sebum reacting with oxygen and causing a black ‘head’ in the follicle.

• Closed comedones are usually white in colour as a keratinized cell blockage occurs.

The condition is generally characterized by excess sebum and keratinized cells that block the mouth of the hair follicle. It is not an infectious condition and usually found on the face – chin, nose and forehead, the upper back and chest.

Treatment includes the area should be cleansed, and an electrical vapour treatment or other heating treatment should be given to the area to loosen the ‘mouth’ of the follicle; a sterile comedone extractor should then be used to remove the blockage. A regular cleansing routine is recommended as well as gently exfoliating the skin 2-3 times per week to ensure that more blockages do not occur.

Seborrhoea

This is quite literally excessive secretion of sebum from the sebaceous glands. This usually occurs during puberty, as a result of hormonal changes in the body.

It is not an infectious condition. The follicle opening is usually enlarged and excessive sebum is secreted from said follicle. The skin appears rough and oily, with comedones, papules and pustules present. Commonly affected sites are the face and scalp, but can also affect the back and chest.

Treatment of this condition includes regular cleansing with a sebum inhibitating product, to remove and prevent excess oil. In some cases medical treatment is required.

Steatomas / Sebaceous cysts / Wens

This is a condition characterized by localized pockets/sacs of sebum, which form in hair follicles or under the sebaceous glands in the skin. The sebum becomes blocked, the sebaceous gland becomes distended and a lump forms.
It is not an infectious condition and appears to be semi-globular in shape, either raised or flat and can be hard or soft. The cysts are the same colour as the skin, or red if secondary bacterial infections occur in the cyst, which is a sign of inflammation in the cyst. A comedone can often be seen at the original mouth of the hair follicle.

It usually occurs in the face, back and chest, but can occur on the upper eyelid, in which case it is known as chalazion or meibomiam cysts.

The only way to treat this condition is to have the cyst removed by a physician under a local aneasthetic.

Acne Vulgaris

Acne vulgaris is caused by a hormone imbalance in the body at puberty, which influences the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum. The sebum may be retained in the sebaceous ducts, causing congestion and bacterial infection of the surrounding tissue. The presence of P.Acnes causes the duct to become inflamed.

It is not an infectious condition. Inflammation of the skin, accompanied by comedones, pustules and papules is present in the area. Common sites are the face, nose, chin and forehead (T-Panel). It can however also appear on the chest and back.

The best treatment for this is to keep the skin clean and moisturized with a good, non-oily cream, which contains tee tree oil or salicylic acid to help regulate the oil. Regular facial treatments are also recommended to cleanse the skin well as well as increase blood circulation to the area. The other alternative is to take an oral antibiotic.

Acne Rosacea

This is a condition which is seen by excessive sebum secretion combined with a chronic inflammatory condition, caused by dilation of the blood capillaries. The skin becomes rough, the pores enlarge, and the cheeks and nose area become inflamed, sometimes swelling and producing a butterfly pattern. Blood circulation slows in the dilated capillaries, creating a purplish appearance.

For Treatment advice Also See:

Skin Rejuvenation

Colon Hydrotherapy

Acne

Acne Treatment

Erythema

This condition is seen as an area of skin in which blood capillaries have dilated, due either to injury or inflammation.

This is not a contagious condition and is characterized by redness of the skin. It can be either localized (in one area only) or general (affects all of the skin).

When considering treatment, it is important to consider the cause for the inflammation. In the case of a skin allergy, the client should avoid contact with the irritant. If the cause is unknown, the person should have test, preferably blood test done, to try and identify what is causing the inflammation.

Dilated Capillaries / Telangiectasia

This is a condition in which the superficial blood vessels are permanently dilated. This is not an infectious condition and is characterized by small, red visible blood capillaries. They mostly appear in areas where the skin is neglected, dry or fine, such as the cheeks and around the naso-labial folds.

It can be treated by using a green corrective camouflage cosmetic concealer, or can be removed by either electrolysis or IPL treatments.

Spider Naevi / Stella Haemangiomas

This condition is characterized by dilated blood vessels, with smaller dilated capillaries radiating from them. It is not an infectious condition and the name comes from their appearance as the dilated capillaries look like a spider’s legs with a body.

Common sites include the cheek area, but may occur on the upper body, the arms and the neck. They are usually caused by an injury to the skin.

They can be concealed using camouflage cosmetic or treated via electrolysis or IPL treatments.

Naevi vasculosis /  Strawberry Naevi

This is a condition in which red or purplish raised marks appear on the skin at birth. It is not an infectious condition and the naevus have different sizes. It can occur on any area of the body.

In about 60% of cases, these naevi disappear by the age of 6 years. Treatment is usually not necessary; concealing cosmetics can be applied if desired.

Capillary Naevi / Port-Wine Stains

This characterized by large areas of dilated capillaries, which contrast noticeably from the surrounding areas. It is also not an infectious condition and has a smooth, flat surface.

About 25% of these occur on the head and are most likely formed at the foetal stage. Naevi may also be found on the neck and face. Camouflage cosmetic creams can be applied to disguise these areas.

The two most common changes are:

1. Hyperpigmentation – in which case an increase in pigmentation occurs in an area
2. Hypopigmentation – in which case loss of pigmentation occurs in an area of the skin

There are many different types of pigmentation lesion:

Ephelides / Freckles

A freckle is the common name used for Ephelides, which are multiple small pigmented areas of the skin. These can either be caused by a genetic predisposition or by the stimulation of an overproduction of melanin due to Ultra-violet light (sunlight) in an area of the face or body.

They are not infectious and are small flat, pigmented areas, which are darker than the surrounding skin. They are commonly found on the nose and cheeks of fair-skinned people. They may also appear on the shoulders, arms, hands and back – all areas of increased sun exposure.

Freckles may be treated by concealing them with cosmetics or with IPL/Laser treatment to reduce their colour. A sun block should be worn, to prevent them intensifying in colour.

Lentigines

These are pigmented areas that are slightly larger than freckles, do not darken with exposure to UV light and are slightly raised.

They are not infectious and appear to be brown, slightly raised, pigmented patches. They are commonly found on the face and hands and are often referred to as Sunspots. The only way to treat them is to apply cosmetics or to have their colour reduced with IPL/Laser treatments.

Vitiligo or Leucoderma

This is a form of hypopigmentation in which patches of completely white skin, which have lost their pigmentation or which were never pigmented appear on the skin. These patches can coagulate and in some cases take over large areas of the body. They can also be a cause of over exposure to UV light.

They are not infectious and are commonly found on the face, neck, lower abdomen and the thighs. If vitiligo occurs over the eyebrows, the hair in the area will lose its pigmentation also.

This condition can only be treated with camouflage cosmetic concealer. You can also apply skin staining preparation in the depigmented areas. One should always be careful when the skin is exposed to UV light, as the skin will not have the same protection in the areas lacking pigment.

Albinism

This is a genetic DNA disposition in which the skin is unable to produce melanin (pigment) and the skin, hair and eyes lack colour. This is not a form of pigmentation problems, but is often said to be a form of hypopigmentation.
 

There are currently so many products on the market for hair removal that it would be impossible to discuss each one in perfect detail.

The types of products are also very controversial as many promise results that they do not deliver. There are no, I repeat, no over the counter products that can permanently remove your hair. This only means that there are no creams that can remove the hair permanently. Not even IPL and Laser hair removal can 100% guarantee that an individual’s hair will be removed for the rest of your life. This is due to the fact that hormonal changes, which occur naturally over the years, play a major role in new hair follicles being stimulated.

The most popular products for home hair removal are:

1. Depilatory creams, such as NAIR, which works on the basis of depilation, which, as with shaving, removes the part of the hair above the skin’s surface. These creams work on the basis of dissolving disulfide bonds that link the protein chains that give hair its strength, making the hair disintegrate. The active ingredient that performs this action is calcium thioglycolate. This only removes the hair on the surface and is therefore not a long-lasting option for hair removal.

Advantages

• Relatively Inexpensive
• Fast
• Various strength products available to dissolve even the strongest of hairs
• Done at home
• Available at most pharmacies and retailers.

Disadvantages

• Effect lasts a short time. Re-growth begins to appear generally within 2-5 days.
• Dark-haired users may be left with a visible "shadow" of dark hair under skin.
• Chemical depilatory creams are generally foul in odor and messy to use.
• Can cause severe skin irritation or allergic reactions.

These creams come in different forms, such as gels, creams, lotions, aerosols spray-ons, and roll-ons. The two most popular name brands are NAIR and VEET.

1. Shaving is the other most common home hair removal system. All that is needed is a good razor, shaving cream or gel and your time.

Advantages

• Fast
• Easy
• Done at home
• Relatively inexpensive

Disadvantages

• Effect lasts a short time. Re-growth begins to appear generally within 2-5 days.
• Dark-haired users may be left with a visible "shadow" of dark hair under skin.
• Can cause severe irritation, razor burn, cuts, infections and razor bumps.

As mentioned previously, there are other products that are advertized for home hair removal, however, the above two are your safest and most reliable treatments for DIY.

1. Waxing is a third alternative for home hair removal with many companies, such as Mandy’s making home care kits available for different areas of the body.

Advantages:

• The hair takes longer to re-grow than with shaving and depilatory creams
• Relatively quick procedure

Disadvantages:

• Painful
• Can have really bad side-effects if not done with the proper technique
• In-grown hairs are common after waxing

Al hair removal products that are advertized for home use is safe for both men and women, however, because the structural differences between male and female hair it is important to consider the type of razor blade used as well as the amount and concentration of the depilatory cream used.

Always consider the duration of ‘hair-free’ time that any hair removal method gives, as it is often more expensive in the long run, than having the hair removed by means of Laser, IPL and electrolysis.

ALSO SEE:

• Hair Removal

• Laser Hair Removal

• Temporary Hair Removal Methods
  

• IPL vs Laser Hair Removal

• IPL Hair Removal

There are many nutrients that have positive effects in relation to skin care, however a few stand out above the rest.

Vitamin C:

The main action that vitamin C has on the skin is that it is a very powerful antioxidant which reduces the damage that is caused by free-radicals on then skin. Free-radicals are a harmful byproduct of ultraviolet rays (sunlight), pollution and smoke. Free-radicals cause damage to the skin by destroying collagen and elastin, the fibers that support skin structure and gives it it’s ‘plumpness’. The effect of these free-radicals is wrinkles and skin ageing.

Vitamin C not only reduces the damage by free-radicals, but also stimulates the cells in the dermis to produce new collagen.

Vitamin C furthermore inhibits tyrosinase (the enzyme that stimulates melanin) from triggering more melanin to be produced which decreases pigmentation problems.

It is important to note that the form on vitamin C that is used in formulations is the tricky part. The only truly beneficial form, which has the ability to penetrate to the dermis of the skin, is L-ascorbic Acid. This is the only form that the body recognizes. It must be in this active form, at a low pH, as the skin will otherwise barrier it.

To make sure your diet includes plenty of vitamin C, eat citrus fruits and vegetables rich in vitamin C such as bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, and leafy greens. These foods can replace the loss of the vitamin through the skin. You can also take vitamin C supplements, up to 500 to 1,000 milligrams of per day, however it is once again important to remember that it has to be the chiral form, to have a proper effect on the skin.

Vitamin E:

Vitamin E, as vitamin C is another powerful antioxidant with similar effects in regard to free-radical damage. In combination with vitamin C, when used in topical preparation as well as being taken internally, you are ensured of the best protection and prevention against free-radical damage and its long-term effects- ageing and skin cancer.

Supplementation with natural Vitamin E in 400 mg per day has been noted to reduce photo damage, wrinkles and improve skin texture.

The richest sources of vitamin E are vegetable oils, nuts, seeds, olives, spinach, and asparagus. It is, however not always possible to get adequate amounts from food sources and therefore an anti-oxidant supplement is recommended to ensure that you get the correct amount necessary. It is important to note that this vitamin if taken in high doses can be harmful and should be kept to 400 I/U or less per day. This is another reason why it is vital to use a topical preparation containing vitamin E.

Vitamin A:

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and is essential for the maintenance and healing of epithelial tissues. The skin is a large ‘bundle’ of epithelial cells and therefore benefits greatly from vitamin A, both taken internally as well as applied topically. Vitamin A is a skin ‘normalizer’ and aids in the formation of a healthy stratum corneum as well as aiding at improving conditions such as skin ageing, acne, pigmentation and many others.

Although it is rare in communities were a healthy, balanced diet is followed, vitamin A deficiencies can be seen immediately in the appearance of the skin among other things. Even a slight deficiency can lead to a dry, flaky,fragile and prone to wrinkles complexion. This occurs due to the fact that vitamin A is necessary for the maintenance and repair of skin tissue.

Best sources of Vitamin A are animal sources such as egg yolks, organ meat (liver/kidneys), oysters and nonfat milk. Fruits and vegetables are also good sources of vitamin A, however one needs to consume a lot more of these to get the adequate amount for healthy skin maintenance.

Another form of Vitamin A that is crucial for healthy skin is Beta-carotene. Beta-carotene helps prevent and reduce the skin’s inflammatory response, which in turn aids with minimizing the effect of UV rays on the skin. The best food sources are dark-coloured produce, such as carrots, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, watermelon, papaya, broccoli and spinach.

Vitamin B Complex

The single most important B vitamin is biotin in relation to skin care as it is the nutrient that forms the basis of skin, nail, and hair cells. Even a mild deficiency can cause forms of dermatitis such as eczema, dry, flaky skin and even ichthyosis. The best food sources are bananas, eggs, oatmeal, and rice, plus your body naturally produces biotin. Biotin plays an important role in creating a healthy glow to the skin, whilst hydrating cells and increasing overall tone.

Niacin, a specific B vitamin, helps skin retain moisture. Niacin also has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe dry, irritated skin. In higher concentrations it can also work as a lightening agent to even out pigmented areas on the skin.

Provitamin B (panthenol) aids in the healing of wounds as well as lessens skin inflammation making it an important ingredient in skin care products, especially acne related products.

Vitamin B food sources are widely ranged and it is therefore important to follow a balanced nutrient filled eating plan as well as taking a good supplement.

Vitamin K

Vitamin K is the nutrient responsible for helping blood coagulate (clot). Vitamin K is often found in eye preparations as topically, it works to reduce dark circles under the eyes, which are caused by a pooling of blood in the area. It is also commonly found in preparations for the treatment of bruises for this same effect. When combined with Vitamin A in a skin care preparation, it is even more effective at reducing the dark circles.

The best source of vitamin K is found in Lettuce leaves as well as other green leafy vegetables.

Minerals:

• Selenium. This nutrient is a powerful anti-oxidant which as it not only acts as such, but also plays a role in antioxidant enzyme activity.  Selenium assists a group of enzymes that, in combination with Vitamin E, work to prevent the formation of free-radicals and prevent oxidative harm to cells and tissues. It is widely distributed in foods such as meats, shellfish, vegetables and grains that are grown in selenium rich soil.

• Copper. Copper peptides are effective in skin regeneration as well as aiding in the removal of blemishes and scars. They help activate the natural human biological processes that rebuild and renew skin, nails and hair. Dermal collagen and elastin is rebuilt leaving a firmer, more elastic skin. The water-holding proteins in the skin (proteoglycans) are increased, resulting in a moist, naturally hydrated skin. Blood microcirculation is rebuilt, which gives the skin a better nutrient supply and in turn improves the colour. Oxidative damage is reduced as the skin’s naturally occurring anti-oxidant enzyme, superoxide dismutase, is activated, which naturally combats free-radicals. The best food sources include organ meat, seafood, nuts and seeds.

• Zinc. Zinc works with your body’s natural proteins and aids in their fuctioning. It forms a part of all the skin and body cell’s genetic material. Zinc in skin care preparations aids in taming oil production and may be effective in controlling the formation of acne lesions. Zinc is vitally important not only in regard to skin care, but to all systems of the body as deficiencies lead to many problems including growth retardation. The best food sources for zinc are animal foods such as meat, shellfish and poultry. Legumes and whole grains (especially fortified) also contain zinc, however, the zinc is not as well absorbed by the body as in the case of animal sources.

Alpha-Lipoic Acid

Alpha Lipoic Acid is known as the universal anti-oxidant as it acts as the anchor of the antioxidant network. It energizes skin cells, giving them more carrying capacity, which enables them to repair and regenerate more quickly and function more efficiently.

Alpha Lipoic Acid is water and fat soluble and known to stimulate other vitamins such as Vitamin C and E to function better, supplying more anti-free radical power and DNA protection. It also functions to plump out wrinkles, smoothing the skin and when combined with Vitamin C, helps to even out pigmentation problems.
It is present in the skin and can only be applied topically in skin care preparations

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs)

EFA’s are crucial to the production of skin’s natural oil barrier. Especially Omega-3 and 6 FA. They are especially important for skins that lack oil.
They are (especially 3) found in cold-water fish, including salmon, sardines, and mackerel, flaxseed, and flax and safflower oils.

When all of the above nutrients are present in a diet you are ensured that you will have the number one defense against skin problems as they all work to help prevent signs of ageing, oil problems, as well as all other problems as stated above.

Also, remember that it is not just important to nourish the skin form the inside, but also to apply good skin care products that contain these nutrients, in combination with a SPF, to ensure that your skin and body has the optimal assistance to perform it’s function.

Regardless of the product that is used, their are specific steps that a facial, done by a skin care professional, should include for it to be effective. It is important to remember that, even though you want to relax during a facial treatment, than the goal of a facial is to treat whichever skin condition one has, and can therefore be less relaxing and more therapeutic. Once your specific needs have been addressed during the first few facials, with you (hopefully) following the correct homecare routine, the facial will become more relaxing, whilst still remaining therapeutic as the conditions to be addressed will become more pronounced with every facial.

The Facial Routine:

The Cleanse:

The cleanser that is used during the facial should be based on your skin type, not condition. Usually an all purpose cleanser/make-up remover is used first to remove all make-up from the skin. The therapist should use an eye make-up remover on the delicate skin around the eye and a different make-up remover for the rest of the face. A good eye make-up remover is formulated to be tear free and would contain a product such as corn starch for ‘de-stressing’ the eye area.

One all make-up residue is removed from the skin, the cleanser will be applied with light circular movements onto the skin. As stated above, your skin type will determine the cleanser used. There are 4 basic skin types:

1. Dry Skin will usually require a cream or milk based cleanser which will be a water in oil suspension. What this means is that the water phase will be less than the oil phase of the ingredients in the cleanser. This type of formulation will cleanse the skin without drying it, as the oil phase is enough to not strip the skin excessively as dry skins already lack oil.
2. Normal skin will require that the cleanser used not throw out the balance between the water and oil in the skin. A milk/cream cleanser is also often used for this type of skin, however, this skin type can also tolerate gel cleansers that are not too harsh.
3. Combination skins require a cleanser that is appropriate for the type of combination skin that you are dealing with. Combination skin typically means that the T-panel (forehead, nose, chin) of the face is different from the rest of the facial skin. The T-panel can either be oily, with the surrounding skin being normal or normal with the surrounding skin being dry. In the first case, a gel cleanser with a oil in water phase formulation will be best as you want to remove the excess oil, without drying the surrounding skin. For the latter case, you would preferably use a cleansing milk or a very mild cleansing gel.
4. Oily skins require the use of a gel cleanser ( oil in water phase where the oil phase is very low) with an added ingredient to regulate the oil production. There are many of these ingredients on the market, so be sure to ask your skin care professional whether the product that is being used contains such an ingredient.

Cleanser should be removed with lukewarm water as the temperature of the water will further remove any excess oil on the skin as well as having a slight anti-bacterial effect on the skin as apposed to cold water.

The exfoliation:

This is a vital part of any facial as well as home care routine as it prepares the skin for any active ingredients that will be put on the skin after, by removing the dead skin cells that impede penetration of product into the skin. There are two different exfoliator types:

1. Enzymatic exfoliators, which’s action works by the enzymes in the exfoliator breaking the bonds between the keratin fibers of the skin, which aids in the removal of these dead skin cells. These enzymes are derived from fruits such as papaya, pineapple and other tropical fruits.
2. Granular exfoliators have micro granules in the formulation which remove the dean skin cells by the manual manipulation of the product on the skin. The most popular granules are synthetic spherical granules that have replaces granules such as crushed apricot kernel, which was not perfectly round and actually caused more harm than good.

I personally prefer an enzymatic exfoliator, activated with steam, than a granular exfoliator, as the enzymes physically only remove excess dead skin cells and no more, whereas granular exfoliators can remove too musch of the stratum corneum, leaving the skin exposed.

Extractions:

Extractions should be done directly after the exfoliation as the skin is ‘open’ and all dead impeding skin has been removed, which will aid in the lesions yielding more easily. Extractions should never be extreme and only lesions that are visible, such as pustules (pimlples with ‘yellow’ heads) and open blackheads. White heads (blind pimples), milia, macules and nodules should not be extracted as the bacteria in the lesion will be spread into the bloodstream as extractions of these lesions will cause bleading.

The Massage:

Massage is important for more reasons than just the relaxing effect that it has on the client. Massage stimulates the different body systems and facial massage is especially important as it stimulates the blood and lymphatic systems. By stimulating the lymphatic system, toxins are released from the skin, to help reduce adn prevent  the signs of ageing. Stimulation of the blood system, increases the temperature in the area, which will increase the penetration of active ingredients into the skin

Massage pressure should be light to medium as a very hard pressure can actually cause damage in the long run as the collagen and elastin fibers are pressed onto the underlying muscle and bone, which causes breakdown of these fibers.

The Mask:

Once the skin has been massage, it is ready for serums and or masks to be applied to the skin as the skin is at is most absorptive at this point in the facial. The Serum/ Mask should be chosen in accordance to your skin condition, not type. Skin conditions include, but are not limited to:

• Dehydration will be treated with a serum or mask that has moisturizing capacities. There is a difference between moisturization and nourishment. Dehydrated skins lack ‘water’/moisture and therefore need moisture to be reintroduced into the skin. Most skins have some form of dehydration, due to lifestyle and polution. Dry skins lack oil and therefore need nourishment.

• Couperouse is temporary or chronic redness appearing on the skin of the face. It appears as small, dilated, winding, bright red blood vessels on the cheeks, around the nose and sometimes on the chin. It occurs due to poor elasticity in the cappillary walls. A serum or mask with vasoconstrictive ingredients will be helpful in improving the red appearance as well as help stregthen the cappiliary walls.

• Sensitivity is a tricky condition, as all skins have some form of sensitivity. A truely sensitive skin will react to most active ingredients. A sensitised skin (as is usually the case) will react to some ingredients. A serum/ mask for a sensitive skin will have ingredients to build the resisdence of the skin

• Pigmentation is a condition in which the skin produces too much or too little melanin in any given area. (Pigmentation is descussed in more detail at http://www.ndi.co.za/?page_id=436). A serum or mask to treat this condition should contain high levels of L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), as it will actually inhibit the enzyme that causes the formation of malenin.

• Ageing occurs when the collagen and elastin fibres of the skin are depleted. This will result in the formation of wrinkles as well as skin sagging. A serum or mask for ageing will include ingredients that stimulate the reformation of these fibres. Ingredients such as vitamin A, collagen, vitamin C and acacia berry re very good at achieving these goals.

• Acne serums and masks should contain both oil reducing ingredients as well as anti-bacterial ingredients. A good example ingredient is tee trea essential oil and salycilic acid, which are both anti-bacterial as well as oil regulating. Again, vitamin A would be an important part of treationg acneic skin as it is a skin ‘normalizer.

Aftercare:

The aftercare products that the therapists applies to your skin after the removal of the mask will be dependant on either skin type, condition or both. A good eyegel is applied to the eye area, followed by a serum for your skin type and then a cream is applied. Always ensure that an SPF is either in the aftercare cream/gel or that a sunscreen is applied over said cream/gel.

It is important to remember that good skincare does not stop after the facial is complete. It is also important to keep up your good skin care regime at home to ensure that the benefits gained in the facial are continued at home.